CULTURE TIP: CHIESA DI SAN FRANCESCO, ASSISI

San Francesco, the church of the holy order of St. Francis, is situated at the North-eastern side of Assisi and proudly thrones over the wide plains below. Doubtlessly, she has earned her reputation as one of the most prominent cultural monuments of Europe mainly because of her famous frescoes. These have almost completely been restored after the devastating earthquake of 1997. The church's patron saint also still stands out among the ranks of catholic saints. All this, of course, hinders a very leisurely visit to this venerable place; hordes of pilgrims and art enthusiasts inundate the old city almost incessantly. Unless, of course, you pick one of those sunlit days far from the main season, when Assisi belongs once more to its inhabitants and a few remaining lonesome tourists-. Then you may enjoy the magnificent view over the surrounding countryside and in quiet serenity behold the beauty of the famous frescoes depicting the life of Saint Francis - only occasionally disrupted by an overly eager guard admonishing visitors with "silenzio!".

The reformist ideas of the passionate holy man did strike the nerve of the time. Youths and people suffering from the decay of the cities and the religious and political disturbances turned to the converted Corinthian and joined him in a quest for inner reflection in countryside solitude and asceticism.

Spectacular as the pious conversion of this proud merchant's son and his future life in the service of God was, as challenging was the assignment to the young painters who had to decorate the mighty twin church at the side of the great Giotto. The lower church and the actual tomb church originated between 1227 and 1239. The upper church was raised upon these two lower edifices and adorned with a wealth of scenes in the nave, both from the Old and New Testament and, of course, a magnificent cycle of the St. Francis legend. One can spend hours gazing at the colourful array of touching scenes; however, the rest of Assisi is also worth seeing!

Take an extended stroll in the direction of the Piazza del Commune and beyond, where museums, churches, charming little piazzas and graceful palazzi side with curious souvenir shops to convey a lively impression of the continued devotion to the holy St. Francis and the wealth that this man to this day bestows on Assisi.

For those who are hungry after so much culture consumption and are still up to a 20 minute walk beyond the city walls through the olive and apple groves, the Ristorante La Stalla is a secret tip (of course you can also reach the restaurant by car -). Here, Benito serves delicious dishes from a wood and charcoal grill, served in the rustic charms of the vaulted interior (the ancient stables it was named after) or on the idyllic sunshine terrace outside. Lovers of "dolci" should not forbear to enjoy the homemade crême brulée that stands out in its class. After all, one need not exaggerate the ascetic bit on the tracks of San Francesco!

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